Why floors squeak

What do you suggest is the best solution? Thank you! Hi Kara, I know what you mean about a squeaky floor driving you crazy. Good for you fixing so many of them!

Did you know the Squeak No More also comes in a kit for carpeted floors? Not sure how to explain it but should I put some shims in any areas that have space going along the support beam in my basement??? Hi Cat. Squeaks can be frustrating for sure!

Both of those methods could help solve your problem. Hi, I have a home with terrible squeaks all over the main floor sq ft. Before we finished the basement we tried to resolve the worst squeaks with shims. The noise is driving me crazy!

These are great questions, and it seems like you are on the right path. The tricks such as WD, talc powder, etc. There are a lot of great things about owning an old home, right? Wood floor queaks, maybe not so much.

Good luck! Please help! A contractor installed a new door between our kitchen porcelain tile and no squeaks for over 15 years and our dining room hardwood oak floor with no squeaks in over 15 years.

The contractor removed the transition wood threshold while installing door and replaced it. Now that we are in the cold months in Ohio, there is dramatic squeaking on both sides of transition. I am dealing with breast cancer recovery and this is very upsetting to me as I fear both floors are being ruined and the porcelain tile may crack.

Could this be due to improper installation of the transition. I cannot imagine that I can get a floor installer to look at such a seemingly minor issue for the installer. I do not know what the cause is or how to proceed. I am using a humidifier in the kitchen to no avail.

I would appreciate any help. It is certainly likely that the new door installation caused some change to how tight or secure your flooring is and if there is even a slight amount of movement, that could be the cause of your squeaks.

Best wishes to you, and I hope you get a full recovery quickly! Hi Caleb. I have some squeaks in my floor that I have narrowed down to exposed nails coming through the plywood sub floor from the basement, which is not finished. Nails rub on plywood when walking on floor and cause the squeak.

Before I attempt to try anything I thought I would see what you suggested. Hi William, it sounds like you are on the right track. It creaks and groans on every square foot throughout.

Is that correct? Hi Jonathan — do you remember if your floor prior to this one squeaked as well? This can also happen when going from carpet to wood flooring. But when a rigid wood floor is installed over a poor subfloor squeaks are often a common result.

That sounds like a frustrating problem! It would inject adhesive underneath your floor to fill in any open areas that might be causing squeaks. It also might be worth having a professional come out to take a look. I am having the same problem. The floor joist and wall base wre nailed and the joist meet the center line of the house main beam 4 feet into the Master bedroom.

I can slide a putty knife under the wall and feel the nails. I drove some small wedges into the gap injected sub floor adhesive and then pulled the wedges, that decreased most of the problem but the nails are still loos in the was, I plan on next pulling the molding up and using screws at an angle low on the wall thru the base plate and into the joist to pull the two back together.

I am open fro any other hints. Hi Sue! Many people have homes where they cannot access their floors from below to fix parts of the subfloor that are moving and causing squeaks.

Wrap transparent tape around one of the screws to prevent it from catching on the carpet strands, drive it through the fixture. Remove the fixture, tip it sideways and insert the screwhead into the slot in the top of the fixture. Rock the fixture side to side until the screwhead snaps off below the surface of the subfloor. Locate the source of the squeak. Drive in the screw until it automatically snaps off below the surface of the wood.

To conceal the screw, fill the pilot hole with wood putty. Allow it to dry, then lightly sand the spot. You can also use a crayon-type putty stick. Quieting Squeaky Stairs The typical interior staircase produces more squeaks and squawks than a flock of angry geese.

Here are simple techniques for reducing stair squeaks: From the Back of the Staircase Look for access to the back of the stairs in closets and the basement—these repairs are the most effective. From the rear, tap glue-coated shims into the joints between the horizontal treads and vertical risers. Or, screw wood blocks into the corners where the risers meet the treads.

A Topside Repair When you can't get behind the staircase, try one of these topside repairs: Take several very thin wood shims and tap them into any loose or squeaky joints that you find. Neatly trim off the shims with a utility knife. Another way to reinforce loose parts is to glue and nail a length of quarter-round molding along each step.

Thanks for signing up! Check your inbox for a welcome email. On vinyls and laminates, you can glue the gaps together press them closed. If the squeaking is concentrated to one area, a few of these screws can hold things in place and solve your issues. Again, the solution is to pull it up and address these underlying issues. Or alternatively, the Squeak No More kit should do the business once more. We hope this article helped you get to the cause of your squeaking problems.

Have a look! To be very clear, we always recommend the advice of a professional and qualified fitter before starting any installation. This article is for reference only.

If using any advice given here, you proceed at your own risk and we take no responsibility or liability from your use of this guide if things go wrong. In reality for the truly for the best results always follow the manufacturer guidelines, use common sense and read up about all aspects of fitting before attempting it yourself:. As a step in the right direction, we recommend visiting MyBuilder. If in doubt, use someone who is recommended by others, get proof of accreditation, and if possible, photos of previous work performed.

I have oak floors on main level that Creek What do I do? Could this be caused by having the air conditioner off during summer? I searched for some fixes for deflection and noisy floors.

I did find a solution that people may find useful. That is why, I really appreciate your post and loved the way you have shared your thoughts and given tips. This is definitely worth sharing. Thanks for your blog and I look forward to read more. This will let you look up at the joists supporting your floor to identify any issues.

Uneven subfloors are one of the most common issues that can cause a squeaky floor. This space allows for movement of the top floor, which then creates noise. You might also have a misalignment or empty space between your subfloor and the joists. The quality of your subfloor can also cause issues. This leads to a loose subfloor or top floor, both of which can shift and cause squeaks and creaks.

Identifying the source of movement in your floors is the first step to solving the issue. Once you know where the issue comes from, you can then choose the best method of fixing it. Remember that you might not need to reach for the power drill right away. Seasonal fluctuations and other minor problems might right themselves once the humidity in your home is back to normal. However, if the problem persists, you can tackle the issue with one of the following methods.

Many squeaky floor solutions require access to the joists and subfloor. If you inspect the area beneath your floor and you find a gap between the joists and the subfloor, you can fix the noise by inserting a thin wooden shim. Pinpoint the exact source of the noise and the gap that exists there. Gently wedge the shim into place. You can also use a bit of carpenter glue to ensure the shim stays.

Be careful when shimming your joists and subfloor, as wedging the piece in too hard can accidentally create an even larger gap between the two. Installing a shim can only fix a specific and isolated gap in your joists and subfloor. If you find a gap that is too long for this method, you can use adhesive instead.

Construction-grade adhesive allows you to fill and secure longer gaps, cracks, and other empty spaces between your joists and subfloor. A caulking gun is the easiest way to install your adhesive directly into the gap. If you use this method, be sure to check both sides of your joist and fill any gaps you find.